Leopard Gecko Build (part 4)

After reviewing my third post on the leo build, I realize I never got around to talking tech about the methods and materials used for the foam rock cave.

Therefore, as promised, methods and material review for my rock cave!

Materials
My best advice here is to keep searching until you have exactly what you want.  I spent weeks trying to find Modge-Podge, finally settling for Liquitex, a similar product.  Ironically, I later found Modge-Podge at Wall-mart for half the price.  Now, I have to say, however, that the Liquitex seems to have worked really well.  It was the least toxic substance I could find, it was the right finish, and it is resistant to moisture.

For the paint, all I did was dig through some old (really old) arts and crafts boxes in the basement and found a decent pallet of naturalistic rock colours.  I based my pallet choice on some of the rocks I've collected to use in future tanks; rocks found along the shoreline, in fields, etc.  Rocks are one of the few things I prefer to find outside than actually buy. They aren't porous (obviously) so they're easy to disinfect and use.  Sorry, side-bar.  This is one of the parts of the build that might require a bit of an artistic background.  I've been taught colour selection and identification since I was young, so it's all fairly second nature to me.  Luckily for everyone, the rules of art are somewhat flexible.  And by that, of course, I mean it's all up to you.  It all comes down to what you're able to achieve.  Choose colours that reflect the type of habitat you want to create for your animals.  For this build, as I recall, I used the following colours; a creamy white, a deep blue, a dark grey, a mocha brown, and bit of black.

Lastly, the right tools for the right job.  I'm lucky enough to have a plethora of brushes both new and old kicking around.  I used just one brush for the majority of the painting, one sponge brush for the sealant, and one fine brush for the cave painting details.  I originally wanted to use a spray-bottle  to apply the sealant, but Liquitex specifies not to mix with water, which would have been necessary to reduce its consistency.  The sponge brush work fairly well, leaving a nice pitted texture, which I found worked better than the unnatural strokes of a course brush.

Methodes
The best way I can describe how to get a natural rocky look is to just dump on the paint.  Don't mix it on the pallet, mix on the canvas (the rock).  This makes for a blotchy, heterogenous mix of colours which looks much more natural than straight lines of different, solid colours.  Another tip is just that, the tip.  Use the tip of the brush and... just... tap it on.  Hard to explain.  Let the bristles give the rock that "sprayed on" look like that of centuries of mud and weather working on the stone.  Once you've got a nice mix of colours, don't over work it!  This will blend the colours and ruin that natural texture you've jsut spent fifteen minutes getting!
Also, don't feel rushed, but if you can establish a base over the entire build while the initial coat is still wet, you'll have a much easier time mixing the colours up just the way you want them.  If, by chance, you want a dusty look, try a little dry brush action, which I won't get into detail here.  I'll leave that up to the much artsier people of the internet.

You want to see the third phase of the leo tank?  Yeah you do.

For anyone who's followed the progression of my leo tank, much change can be observed.  Chief among them, the substrate.  Although the use of sand makes me leery, this is not your run of the mill sand.  It's Zoo-Med's Excavator Clay Burrowing Substrate.  Before I launch into it, I have to mention the following:

This is a clay-based substrate; there IS a risk of impaction.

Having said that, here's why I still chose to use it.
First of all, the clay is a great base to hold all the driftwood and stones in place, and it makes for great hills and depressions.  It also holds heat far better than the Eco-Carpet.  It's also more natural and visually appealing, though by no means should you compromise functionality for looks.  This clay sand compacts nicely and forms a fairly solid base.  It's much harder to accidentally ingest this than regular sand.  Also, in my case, the crickets usually make for the dark "safety" of the cave.  As such, the cave still makes use of the Eco-Carpet, for exactly that reason.  It becomes the feeding ground for crickets.  Another designated feeding area is the large flat stone I sunk into the clay sand just outside of the cave.  So far, it's been great.

The clay is made of sculpt burrows and tunnels, but I've heard tales of the tunnels collapsing, most likely due to poor construction.  I didn't even try this, for exactly that reason; I didn't want to risk having a tunnel collapse on my leo. 

The overall result has so far been pretty good.  The cave, thanks to the new Heat Wave Desert under-mounted tank by Exo-Terra, I'm holding a pretty cozy temperature inside the cave.  I haven't yet been able to buy the thermometer I've been eying to get an exact reading, but it's certainly around 30 °C.  Bronka spends most of his time basking half inside the cave, half outside, sleeping right under the heat lamp.  I put not a small amount of thought into the layout of this setup; the cave is both the first and second floor of a three-storey "bungalow", the third being the old piece of driftwood I've been using since I first got him.  This layout effectively creates a sort of Rete's stack, despite the fact that it's far warmer at the bottom.  The new piece, clearly visible on the right, was a great find! It's hollow, making for a very cozy natural hide out of the direct light.  I will be placing moist moss in it soon enough, finally providing the two natural hides he should have; cool and warm, dry and moist.  I've seen him out exploring much more since he's moved in.  I truly thinks he enjoys it!  The front door access has made picking him out ofthe tank much easier, allowing me to handle him much more than before!

Although I could fit a couple extra furnishings, I think I'll limit myself another rock or two, just to minimize the overall amount of open sand, effectively reducing risk of ingestion.  He has a lot to climb on as it is, and I think he appreciates the wide open spaces he now has as well.

***

Coming up in the next post, I'll talk about the creature I'm really working on acquiring, and possibly revisit some of my previous product reviews.

Odds and Ends

I've been calling around every PetSmart in the area for the past two weeks and still, can't seem to get my hands on a cresty.

I had a bit more luck at the local Pet Depot. I found them way more helpful than the other locations I've tried so far, although I may have just gotten lucky since the girl I spoke with actually has a crested gecko. (Side not, she was pretty, too!) I learned a bit about their suppliers, which is also more reassuring. They get their cresties from a Canadian breeder and she tells me they arrive as hatchlings, which is perfect! It's definitely better than hearing that "they're really tiny when we get them"... because, you know, +1 for using proper terms. I can have one ordered specifically, but I have to put a down payment on it. Both good and bad in my opinion. One the right, they would then be actively involved and perhaps try a little harder to get me one. On the left, I could still get time-shafted. I mean, from what I've been hearing at every other store I've visited, they're waiting on the breeders (a likely story?). I've been thinking about it, and though it might cost me a little more, if I can in a hatchling, (ACTUALLY get one in) I'm all for it! If the clerk's cuteness and helpfulness was any indication, it'll be just fine. (Yeah, that makes sense to me... and speaks volumes...)

I sis learn a couple other fun factoids too. I probably got suckered into buying the UV light. Heck, I figured out that much before talking with the Pet Depot clerk (Emily?) about it, but then I hear that cresties can actually get sun burned?! Dafuq is up with that? If that's true, it's a strike against that goon at PetSmart (I'm sorry, you're at work, in a professional place, take off the face metal, maybe??) who sold me it. That'll learn me.

Emily(?) also feeds her gecko Repashy, which might be sold at Big Al's! At least, the one in Kanata (?) sells it. But hey, there's always online order. She also feeds gut buster crickets, but not every day. Oh, silly gecko dietary plans. I'm starting to think it's just a long-running joke.

I told her about the rest of my set-up, though, and she agreed with it. +1 for me.

I'm going back this Wednesday to place my order and I'd love to ask her about some of the other products I bought. I may have some extra junk lying around once all is said and done! Call it an investment for future herps. Or, you know, a waste of cash. Blah.


Oh, and I've been trying to find a way to link to this blog, but I can't. So here's the link to Exo-Terra's Sri Lanka expedition. Looks pretty cool.

Environment Test (take 2)

I'm putting this post off way too long, but damn it, I keep getting sided by updated manga and youtube videos. I've been meaning to do this since last night when I modified my setup, but figured it be more chronologically sensical to wait till the following day to rectify my doom-and-gloom post of yesterday. 

I think I finally have it. With the exception of some varying humidity readings, everything seems to jive. I have a hot zone temp of about 32°C (bugger off and learn metric, I hate converting lol), a cool zone of a little under 25°C, clear difference in temperature of about 2°C between the majority of the ground cover and the ground under the hide-away, and a humidity of 80% on the dot in the most humid zones.

What's different? This little bugger: the Zoo-Med Reptile Lamp Stand. This thing litterally saved my enclosure. I was originally looking for the Exo-Terra Light Bracket, but was unable to find this at my local PetSmart as well as one of the many in Ottawa. I was kind of crunched for time last night though and didn't really want to make an hour and twenty minute commute for nothing, so I asked around and one of the staff pointed me to Big Al's (seriously!). The stores full name is Big Al's Canada (just look for the big shark!), and I think I'll be putting their link in my list for future shopping needs. These guys specialize in fish, reptiles and ponds. No bird nonsense or kitten shenanigans here. I wish I ahd more than ten minutes to scope out the place, but closing time is closing time.

Anyway, grabbed this item without comparing much with what I'd seen of the Exo-Terra bracket, and I was a little scared on my way home. But lo and behold, it's a thing of beauty! Not that I can physically compare, but this looks to be the product to fit my need. It's taller, brings the light out further from it's stem, and even has it's own base so you don't have to mount it permanently to your tank. Now, mind you, I say this again, this product is better for my needs. For one thing, with the combination of light dome and canopy, the bracket would of had to of been mounted to the side; not a very esthetically pleasing prospect. Also, I plan on upgrading tank sizes by year end, so I don't really want to buy another, or rip it off the side or whatever.

However, there is a big "but" here, other than mine own; did some price checking. The Exo-Terra bracket falls in the price range of about 11.00$ to 15.00$. The Zoo Med stand runs you up around 45.00$.

So it's a question of apples and oranges really. They serve functions different enough for them to be considered completely different products (in my opinion) and should therefore not be compared (much like the Gene Wilder Willy Wonka and the Johnny Depp Willy Wonka).

To summarize, both the Zoo Med Lamp Stand and the Exo-Terra Light Bracket are viable options for ways to affix your light and better control the inner temperature of your enclosure and keep the light out of harms way, as depicted in the image below.

I should like to point out that the only two of the wires in that tangle are associated with the terrarium.
The rest are an unfortunate by product of technology in the living space.

Environmental Test

I finally put my substrate into the terrarium and I'm very I did. I tried running a humidity and temperature test, to see if I could maintain the right levels. As it turns out, for the moment at least, I can't. My temperature soared into the high 30s (Celsius) and my humidity got blasted down to 20%.

It looks like sitting my lamp on top of my enclosure is just too much heat to keep it humid. With a good morning misting (about 3 and half hours ago) I was able to raise my humidity to about 45% but it has since dropped back to about 20%.

I'm going to have to try to pick up a stand of some sort to keep a bit of distance between the terrarium and the heat source. Maybe stagger it a bit so it's not quite a direct beam of light.

Also, looks like I might need a new hygrometer. I tried moving it to a better location... which was a terrible idea. It left asticky ring of foam and gunk. I'm just happy I was able to wipe off the gunk...

Also, picked up a few more goodies; I got the Half Log Hideout (medium size) by All Living Things and an Exo-Terra Faunarium to keep my cresty in when I clean out his habitat.

That is, assuming I can make the habitat liveable...
Trying to find a couple extra ways of keeping the hygro up.
 

Despite the messed up temperature, I do like the appearance.

One more positive thing; I took a temperature touch-test of the substrate in the hideout and near the water dish. Even with my indelicate touch, I was able to sense a noticeable difference, which is exactly what I wanted.

Prepping my Terrarium (part 3)

Step 3: Lighting, Heating and Humidifying

So now that I have all my branches and bushes exactly how I want them, I'll turn my focus to the mechanic aspects.

It's important to note that I have been keeping my heating and lighting in mind as I place my decorations in order to create the desired hot and cool spots.

Heating:
After doing a bit of research, I find again that there aren't concrete rules for these guys.
Taking into account everything I've read so far, I would have to say that cresties need a day-time temperature of about 80 to 82°F (27 to 28°C) in the hot spots and somewhere in the mid 70s in the cool spots (about 24°C), unless you plan on breeding them. Though the brochure provided by PetSmart indicates a maximum hot-spot temperature of 85°F (30°C), some of my other sources (namely Crested Gecko Canada) state that temperatures above 83°F (28°C) can increase your gecko's stress, and temperatures any higher than 85°F can in fact be fatal. So none of that.

Also, I mentioned that breeding would require different temperatures. Since I don't have immediate plans on breeding, I haven't looked into it with much detail, but again, Crested Gecko Canada has some good knowledge on it.

To help control these varying temperatures, I bought an extra thermometer (product of All Living Things) to go with the thermometer and hygrometer provided in the Exo-Terra starter kit. The first I place up in the basking zone of the terrarium to make sure I never get into those deadly ranges. The second (which I may have botched), I stuck lower to the ground near the cool spot, just to make sure things stay cool but not cold.

To be fair though, this might be overkill, as I have read that cresties can take temperatures in the mid 60s (about 16 to 17°C), but I don't really want to push my luck, as these guys need heat to grow and to help them digest.

Lighting:
In terms of heat lamps, I was advised to get a 60W Neodymium daylight bulb (Sun Glo 60W by Exo-Terra). The literature I found online backs up my choice, indicating that a low wattage heating bulb is all that is necessary. Cresties are nocturnal after all. I have even been told that an infra-red bulb way serve too, as I could leave that on day-round since it sheds no light, but I prefer it this way... so far.

I also run a Repti Glo 5.0 UVB 26W bulb by Exo-Terra in the lamp that was included in the starter kit to provide my cresty with necessary uv levels. This bulb has a high uv output, which may affect my choice of cricket calcium powder in the future (since my current powder is fortified with vitamin D3, a possibly redundant additive in light of... the light).
This bulb would be very necessary if I were running a natural terrarium, however, given that plants require this light to grow as well.

The effect is as follows:

This image shows my terrarium bathed in uv light alone,

















while this image shows both the uv light and the heat lamp in full glow.















Also visible on the second image is the placement of my thermo/hygrometers; at the top and bottom.

Humidity:
Last factor to consider is humitidy. This is a tricky one, since a hot humid environment is a breeding ground for moulds and mildews, some of which can be kind of nasty for both myself and the cresty. This means regular cleaning is essential.

But I digress; humidity! Recommended to be between 50% and 80% by the people at PetSmart, 60% to 80% by Crested Gecko Canada. I'm thinking somewhere in the low 70s is where I'll be. This is so far the only factor I haven't tried to control in my environment since I don't want to add the coconut husk substrate till about a day before I get the gecko to avoid wasting it. Considering that no animal wastes will be contaminating it, however, I'll probably get around to setting it up over the course of next week.

Coconut husk seems like the right choice, since it's gentle on the animal, it holds moisture and has a very pleasing natural look, to boot. Added to this is the Exo-Terra Rainforest Heat Wave I have affixed to the bottom of my terrarium. I've had mine plugged in since I set up and I must say; it's not very hot. Weather or not this is normal, it will in any event help release the moisture in the substrate, giving me my humidity.

To keep the substrate moist, misting is required. Once again, I've found about three different solutions. To average them out, I'm going to mist about once or twice a day, or as required to hit that humidity g-spot.

In terms of misting to provide the cresty with water (rather than a dish, as they lick dew off themselves and their surroundings), I'll probably continue to provide a water source, unless I see that the gecko isn't using it at all.

Also, I plan on treating the water with a cleanser, even though I will be using distilled water. I'm taking no chances of poisoning my gecko with chlorinated water, afterall.